Trying to print some more exotic materials, not super exotic, but E3D's PCA/ABS mix, the problem is that they recommend extruder temps around 270 degrees. According to web data, the HS should reach 275 degrees, mine never does, maximum on my printer is 265. Same goes for the heated bed, Lpfrg info says 50-95 degrees, correct numbers are 50-85.
The material of choice is recommended to be printed with a 130 degree bed temp and I know this is a stretch, but the material where bought before knowing for certain bed temp for the HS, I just assumed the bed temp would be enough.
Generally pinting with ABS, I would like a higher bed temp, this to avoid warping. I have some parts, a bit bigger parts that are impossible to print using ABS on the HS.
I've asked Lfrg concerning this issue, their response to the bed temp is that parts on the printer might begin to melt??, upon asking which parts, so far no answer from Lfrg.
I'm a bit concerned, when I bought this printer, I found the temperatures to be a bit low to begin with, learning this, that now seems to be a fact, it kind of changes things.
does anyone know if the temperatures are changeable via the frimware ?
I'm willing to do this, knowing full well that any warranty will be void. I'm simply thinking about exchanging the heater bed for a aluminum one with a 230 v heater.
Lpfrg surely has its reason for limiting these values, things that concerns me though are un-accurate information, it might not be by much, but enough to be a annoying fact.
Ok, good tip, I will try this immediately.
Do you perhaps know which glue you used ?
Anders that's a great hack. Could you please provide pictures of what it looks like? This is certainly one of my biggest gripes with the HS
I only had a pic of how the heater was glued from the beginning. If your heater is the same you see this when the air is expanding during heat-up. At 80-90 deg the airgap heater/glass is app 5mm in between the dots of glue and you can feel this clearly.
After a few moth of use, I think the PSU starts to overheat = the heating power goes down to 50% after a few minutes, this might also be a case of slowly heating bed, Cleaning the PSU from dust made some improvements but not back to 100% al the time, and I'm nor sure this was the problem.
Typical, before I even got started with this hack, my heater gave up. Found that the connector just underneath the bed had a faulty connection. The connector had apparently been exposed to some heat (due to connect error).
Tried to fix the problem by exchanging the connectors, but the copper wire that runs to the bed had seen some oxidation, so any true connection wasn't possible, it seems. The bed in this state had a maximum temperature of 45 degrees.
Re-tried by cleaning the copper wire and soldering new cables, better, but not near the original maximum temp 85 ° (which is a bit low to begin with ), now it only reaches 55°.
I believe my heater is defect, contacted lpfrg, it seems that the recognize this issue, as far as I can tell they will send me a new heater (warranty).
Anyone had thoughts on fitting a 230v heater, seems like a somewhat simple solution. Alu bed, thermistor attached to the middle of the bed?
Would probably be easier on the PSU, easier to run higher wattage on the heater.
Print settings in the Creatr Software can be directly updated in under 'print'.
The latest Simplify 3D profiles can be downloaded using the following links:
Bolt - Simplify3D settings
Bolt Pro - Simplify3D settings
To use the profiles, choose File, then Import FFF Profile and be sure to select the correct profile in your process. You can also watch this video.
Request more information on the Bolt (Pro) firmware and how to update this via the Ticket System
Bolt Pro Firmware